Pão de Ló

It tastes above all of sweet egg yolk and gently set egg, with a warm, custard-like aroma. In the Ovar and Alfeizerão versions, contrast is everything: a thin, toasted crust on top and, beneath it, a moist, silky centre that dissolves on the tongue. The Margaride style is airier and dry, spongy, made to soak up a sip of something hot.

The three great schools are defined by how far they are baked: Ovar, creamy and almost raw, eaten with a spoon; Alfeizerão, moist but firmer, folded over; and Margaride, tall, dry and fluffy. Beyond them lie countless home and regional versions — paler or richer, with or without lemon zest — plus the humble round tray-baked pão de ló found in any pastry shop in the country.

For the real pão de ló de Ovar, look for the loaves wrapped in paper and the IGP seal — several houses in the town sell it fresh, especially at Easter. In Alfeizerão, the Casa do Pão-de-Ló, dating from the 1920s, is the historic name; in Margaride (Felgueiras), bakeries and pastry shops keep the recipe alive across generations. Across the country, any good neighbourhood pastelaria has its own tray-baked pão de ló.

It calls for a strong coffee, a cup of tea, or a glass of Port or Moscatel. The drier Margaride version is best dunked in milky coffee; the Ovar one needs nothing at all — eat it straight from the spoon.