Dona Amélia Queijadas

Sweet and deeply spiced, with cane molasses lending a dark, almost treacly base, balanced by the tang of raisins and candied citron. The texture is moist and dense — closer to a spiced cake than a creamy custard tart.

They come as the common individual queijada and also as a larger cake to be sliced. The balance of molasses, spice and dried fruit shifts from one pastelaria to another, with some leaning heavier on cinnamon or adding a splash of spirit.

Try them at any café or pastelaria on Terceira, above all in Angra do Heroísmo; the pastelaria O Forno in central Angra is a regular reference. They are also sold in boxes of six in Azorean grocers and by mail order.

They call for a strong espresso or a cup of Azorean tea; later in the day, they pair well with a glass of passion-fruit liqueur or Pico wine.