Nº 058
Nevadas
Cakes & Sweet Breads · The Azores

Nevadas

Also known as: Picos · Nevões · Azorean Picos · Chocolate picos

Coated in coconut as white as island snow.

Origin
São Miguel island, Azores — a traditional bakery sweet
Region
São Miguel
Season
Year-round
Sweetness
Richness
Difficulty

Better known as picos or nevões, these little cakes are among the best-loved counter sweets in the bakeries and pastry shops of São Miguel. The name says most of the story: the cake vanishes under a generous drift of shredded coconut, white and fluffy, while the ragged coconut peaks that rise from the coating are said to have given the sweet one of its names.

Beneath that coating hides a soft, lightly sweet leavened dough and a dense filling of coconut bound with egg yolk and condensed milk. This is a counter sweet, sold by the piece — the kind you grab for an afternoon snack and eat standing up, mid-conversation, with coconut-dusted fingertips.

They belong to São Miguel's sweet landscape as much as the bolos lêvedos of Furnas or the queijadas of Vila Franca, though they travel far less off the island — those who know them know them from a neighbourhood bakery window.

Ingredients
  • Wheat flour
  • Eggs
  • Sugar
  • Butter
  • Baker's yeast
  • Milk
  • Shredded coconut
  • Condensed milk
  • Cornstarch
  • Vanilla
Taste & texture

Sweet, but balanced by the earthy dryness of the coconut. The dough is fluffy and elastic, the filling creamy and intense, and the coconut coating gives every bite a grainy, fragrant texture. Condensed milk holds it all together with a milky, gently toasted note.

Variations

The most common variation adds chocolate to the filling, producing picos de chocolate, with a darker centre beneath the same white snow. From bakery to bakery, the size, the sweetness and the generosity of the coconut coating all shift.

Where to try it

Look for them in the bakeries and pastry shops of São Miguel, especially in Ponta Delgada — Padaria Gomes, in the city centre, is a well-known address — and they are easy to find in supermarkets across the island. They almost always sit in the window beside the lêvedos and malassadas; ask for picos or nevões, depending on the shop.

Pairs well with

They call for a strong espresso or a milky meia-de-leite, in the São Miguel manner, or an Azorean black tea — the island has its own plantations — to cut the sweetness of the coconut.

History

The documented history of these sweets is modest. They are not a convent sweet nor an invention with a fixed date: they belong to the bakery tradition of São Miguel, where an abundance of eggs, condensed milk and coconut gave rise to a whole family of rich, white sweets. Their common names — picos and nevões — evoke, respectively, the coconut peaks of the coating and the whiteness of snow.

They should not be confused with the Nevadas de Penacova, a sweet linked to the Lorvão Monastery on the mainland, which are something else entirely: small egg cakes filled with egg custard and finished in a white coating of beaten egg white and sugar. The recipes are unrelated.

Sources: byacores.com · superprato.pt · receitasdeculinaria.tv · tradicional.dgadr.gov.pt