Biscuit Cake

Sweet and buttery, with the bitterness of coffee cutting the richness of the cream. Texture is the heart of it: after hours in the cold, the biscuit loses its snap and turns soft and almost cake-like, set against the silky cream. Every forkful pairs the roasted aroma of coffee with the round sweetness of butter and sugar.

The big divide is the cream: the old-school version uses butter, sugar and egg yolk, while modern ones rely on condensed milk, whipped cream or chantilly for a lighter, fluffier result. Some soak the biscuits in coffee, others in milk or a splash of liqueur, and the cake may be built round, in a bowl or in a rectangular tray. Toppings range from smooth cream to crushed biscuit, grated chocolate or cocoa powder.

More than in any bakery, the real bolo de bolacha lives in homes: it's the dessert made for family and carried to celebrations. You'll also find it in many traditional restaurants as the house dessert and in neighbourhood pastry shops. The genuine version is known by its fully softened biscuit (never hard in the middle) and a cream that doesn't cloy — be wary of overly sweet or industrial versions.

Calls for a strong coffee that echoes the filling, or a simple glass of milk for the little ones. On festive occasions it pairs well with a glass of Port or a sweet fortified wine that converses with the butter and coffee.