Nº 037
Elvas Plums
Festive & Seasonal · The Alentejo

Elvas Plums

Also known as: Elvas plums · Elvas sugar plums · Candied Elvas plums

Crystallised greengage that has crossed borders since the convents of Elvas.

Origin
Elvas, with convent roots; famed from the 19th century onwards
Region
Elvas
Season
Christmas
Sweetness
Richness
Difficulty

Elvas plums are greengages, picked while still firm, blanched and then boiled again and again in sugar syrup until they turn translucent, before being sun-dried until a fine crust of crystallised sugar forms. Inside they stay soft, moist and fragrant; outside they take on the sugary shine that sets them apart.

This is not a tray bake but a patient preserve. Each plum is handled almost individually, and the slow process is why these remain, to this day, a luxury delicacy traditionally kept for festive tables and Christmas gifts.

The Ameixa d'Elvas carries Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) status, recognised by the European Union since 1996, and is one of the oldest ambassadors of Alentejo sweet-making beyond Portugal's borders.

Ingredients
  • Greengage plums
  • Sugar
  • Water
  • Sunshine (for drying)
Taste & texture

Intensely sweet, yet with the plum's fresh acidity underneath. The sugar crust crackles faintly and gives way to a soft, moist, fragrant flesh, almost jam-like. This is a concentrated sweet, to be savoured slowly, one or two at a time.

Variations

The most celebrated form is the dried, crystallised plum, but you also find Elvas plums in syrup — moister and glossier — sold in jars. Wooden or bamboo-strip boxes remain the classic gift presentation.

Where to try it

In Elvas, at the town's traditional houses and producers; there is even a Plum Factory-Museum, housed in a former sweet-fruit factory, devoted to the history of the product. Always look for the Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) seal "Ameixa d'Elvas", your guarantee that it is the region's greengage (grown in Alentejo municipalities such as Elvas, Borba, Estremoz and Vila Viçosa) and not an imitation.

Pairs well with

They call for a sweet or fortified wine: a Moscatel, a Port, or an Alentejo dessert wine. They go well with a strong coffee at the end of a festive meal and pair naturally with cured sheep's cheese.

History

The art of preserving plums in sugar is traditionally attributed to the convents of Elvas. The recipe for preserved plums appears in the recipe book of the Convent of Nossa Senhora da Consolação, home to the Dominican nuns of Elvas (founded in 1528 and dissolved in 1861), and likely dates back to the 16th and 17th centuries, when the nuns mastered the slow craft of candying fruit. The variety used is the greengage, particularly well suited to the hot, dry climate of the Alentejo.

It was in the 19th century that the plum left the cloister and went to scale. Industrial production began in 1834 with the house of José da Conceição Guerra, and other factories in Elvas followed; the sweet began to be packed in wooden boxes and exported to Europe and the Americas (exports to the United States are said to have started around 1875). The town came to live, in large part, off this product, and its international standing earned it dozens of awards at world fairs.

Sources: tradicional.dgadr.gov.pt · gov.uk · pt.wikipedia.org · visitportugal.com · jamesbondfood.com · radioelvas.com