Molotov Pudding

Ethereal and quivering: it melts in the mouth like a moist meringue, its clean whipped-sugar sweetness balanced by the bittersweet, runny caramel. Texture is its charm — spongy, airy, weightless, the complete opposite of dense yolk-based puddings.

Some serve it with nothing more than the caramel from the mould; others top it with an egg custard or sweet egg cream — the latter, more convent-style version, completing the no-waste cycle by using the leftover yolks. There are also versions scented with lemon, orange or cinnamon, set in either a classic ring mould or a plain one.

You will find it in traditional restaurants from north to south, usually among the homemade desserts, and in many neighbourhood pastry shops. It is also a fixture at family celebration tables. Look for it well chilled and tall, with caramel running down its sides — a sign it was unmoulded not long before.

It calls for a strong espresso after the meal, or a glass of white Port or Moscatel de Setúbal, whose sweetness and freshness sit beautifully against the pudding's lightness.