Christmas Broinhas

Sweet without being cloying, the earthy sweetness of the sweet potato balancing the sugar. The crumb is dense and moist, almost cake-like, and every bite carries the crunch of nuts and the warmth of cinnamon and anise. The egg-glazed crust adds a fine, toasty contrast.

Some use only sweet potato, only pumpkin, or a blend of both; some swap walnuts for almonds, pine nuts, raisins or candied fruit; some splash in a glass of Port or aguardente. The broas dos Santos, baked around All Saints' Day in early November, are the closest relative, while Lisbon's broas castelares are the more refined cousin, shaped into elongated ovals and scented with orange and almond.

You will find them baked at home across the country through Advent, and in neighbourhood bakeries from late autumn. In Lisbon, broas castelares appear in old confectioneries and markets through the Christmas season. Look for the handmade, knobbly ones packed with nuts, and avoid the too-smooth, dry industrial versions.

They call for a glass of Port or Moscatel, or a strong coffee in the middle of the afternoon. On a Christmas table they sit happily alongside filhós, sonhos and rabanadas.