Madeira Honey Cake

Dense, moist and intensely aromatic. The cane molasses gives a dark, almost bitter-edged sweetness, far from plain sugar, balanced by the warmth of the spices and the bite of the nuts. The texture is compact and sticky, and the flavour deepens over days.

Some bakers use lard, others prefer butter, and the balance of spices and nuts shifts from family to family. Smaller versions exist — little bolinhos de mel — and lighter, less-spiced cakes tend to appear year-round for visitors. It should not be confused with broas de mel, which are biscuits, or with bolo preto da Madeira, another festive cake that also uses cane honey but includes beer and Madeira wine.

In Funchal, historic houses such as Fábrica Santo António (founded 1893) and Confeitaria Penha d'Águia are long-standing references. Look for cakes still sold round and low, dark from cane molasses rather than cocoa, and whose ingredient list names mel-de-cana, not bee honey.

It calls for a glass of Madeira wine — a sweet Malmsey or Bual — that echoes its dark, spiced notes. At home it is also served with a strong coffee or a cup of tea.