Donas-Velhas

Described by analogy with northern fried sweets: crisp on the outside and soft within, the sweetness of the sugar set against the warmth of cinnamon and a backbone of egg and lemon; honest, comforting fried-dough flavour, best while still warm. Taste inferred from similar sweets, not from a confirmed recipe.

If it exists under this name, it would follow the fate of traditional fried sweets, the recipe shifting from household to household: more or fewer eggs, a scent of Port or aguardente, lard instead of butter, a sugar syrup instead of dry cinnamon. Its shape and name would place it close to filhós and other northern fried treats.

We know of no house, pastelaria or confeitaria selling a sweet by this name, in Lamego or anywhere else. Anyone seeking it would do better to ask families and village feasts in the region directly, and to check whether it is not in fact another northern fried sweet or the Azorean donas-amélias.

Like any Douro fried sweet, it would call for a strong coffee or a glass of Port or Moscatel to balance the sugar and cinnamon.